Map Quest

Thomas Bachelder’s annual release of pinot and chardonnay from vineyards spread across Niagara reaches critical mass in the 2023 vintage. There are 14 whites, mostly chardonnay with a surprising pinot blanc, and nine pinots produced from single vineyards and small parcels stretching from St. Davids to Grimsby.

Twenty years after Bachelder made his first wine for Le Clos Jordanne, he still seeks to identify the best of Niagara in the vineyard and elevate that expression in the winery using training from Burgundy and Oregon and knowledge acquired in Ontario.

There won't be 24 wines released from 2024. More focus is coming to the range, as Bachelder looks to build up inventory of the best sites. “I need marketable amounts of wine that I can sell,” he explains. “Not 50 cases.” Export markets are opening up; there’s interest building abroad.  

At home, the Canadian market is heating up. The LCBO has ordered 12 of  the latest releases, while continuing to sell Bachelder's larger volume labels, including the Les Villages range and L'Ardoise Niagara Chardonnay.

This is the farewell for Bator, the Niagara-on-the-Lake vineyard that used to provide chardonnay, pinot noir and gamay to Bachelder’s operation. The vineyard in the Four Mile Creek sub-region was ripped out in 2024.

Here are my unedited notes for the Bachelder’s 2023 release, listed by score. The wines were tasted sighted, seated across from Bachelder on October 28. 

Top selections: Hanck Pinot Noir 2023 and Hill of Wingfield Chardonnay 2023 These splurge-worthy wines show that Bachelder’s critical eye in the vineyard and cellar yields impressive results. The cream of the crop is the cream of the crop.

Best value: Kirby Old Vines Pinot Blanc 2023 Surprisingly not the first pinot blanc to be released under the Bachelder label, following his Savigny-les-Beaune Les Bas Liards 2012 released in 2015 when the family brand was still producing wines in Oregon and Burgundy as well as Niagara. The Niagara version boasts juicy fruit and refreshing character. A welcome addition.

Pinot Noir
Hanck Pinot Noir 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $75

Rating: 95

Fragrant and flavourful that lends instant appeal to this showstopper. The nose is similar to Wismer Parke, but with more depth and richness to give it an added dimension. This is layered, bright and polished with a silky, supple texture and effortless character. Sensational and worth the splurge. Drink now-2033. 92 cases.

Wismer Parke Wild West End Pinot Noir 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $75

Rating: 95

The prime parcel of Wismer Parke, this has become a benchmark thanks to distinguishing meaty, savoury and saline complexity. The 2023 is polished and measured with layers of black and blue fruit and a soothing, regal finish. Drink now-2035. 71 cases.

Lowrey Old Eastern Block Old Vines Pinot Noir 2023
St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $75

Rating: 95

More depth and riper character than the Lowrey Old Vines, this is soft and generous, polished and pure red fruit, with an orange zest acidity that adds vibrancy to the palate. Hold for best enjoyment. Drink now-2032. 118 cases.

Wismer Parke Pinot Noir 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $60

Rating: 95

Delectable pinot with perfume and lift on the nose and juicy, ripe character and that elemental charge that comes from the vineyard on the palate. A brilliant expression with harmony and balance rolling along to a fresh and mineral-tinged finish. Drink now-2034. 142 cases.

Lowrey Old Vines Pinot Noir 2023
St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $65

Rating: 94

A pinot with depth and rounded texture. Generous style with cran-cherry and rhubarb, just ripe character that’s not green but not exactly delicious. It’s a wine with a following that’s sure to love the fragrant and peppery accents. Drink now-2032. 176 cases.

Cuesta Pinot Noir 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $55

Rating: 93

Complex and distinctive nose suggests a winning mix of earthy, savoury and ripe fruit notes. There’s an over/under ripe personality that makes this stand out from the other 2023s. Hard packed citrussy acidity and cranberry gusting to milk chocolate and red raspberry notes. Give it time to integrate and reach its full potential. Drink 2026-2033. 48 cases.

Spencer Morgan La Côte Pinot Noir 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $55

Rating: 92

From a prime location in Vineland (home to the Megalomaniac winery), this earthy and fruity pinot is straightforward and ready to drink. Its delightfully earthy and fruity in turns with a juicy core of ripe cherry/berry fruit with anise and spice notes. Complete and age-worthy. Drink now-2032. 187 cases.

Saunders Bas Organic 2023
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $55

Rating: 92

A collection of lovely parts, a combination of violets and red fruit on the nose and the palate, a wash of warm spices and minerality that carry through to a lingering finish. More complex and yet tighter than many others in this release, which makes me interested to see how this develops. The sleeper of the vintage? Drink now-2032. 42 cases.

Bator Vineyard Old Vines Pinot Noir 2023
Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $55

Rating: 91

Classic Niagara pinot nose: spicy cherry and berry fruit on display. Bright but not without grip, a juicy core of fruit with lively acidity and drying tannins on finish. Will plump up in bottle, but best to enjoy in the mid-term. Drink now-2029. 38 cases.

Whites (Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc)
Hill of Wingfield Chardonnay 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $75

Rating: 96

Once again, Hill of Wingfield sits at the top of the class. Elegant and textured, focused with purity and equilibrium that make for a fabulously tasty wine to drink or hold. More resonance than the rest, this also has a sense of flair that adds to its stunning character. Drink now-2035. 158 cases.

Wismer-Wingfield Vineyard Chardonnay 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $60

Rating: 95

Focused and fine, there’s plenty of flashbacks of past vintages here. This is youthful, powered by oyster shell minerality and enchanting acidity that add to the purity and enchantment. Drink now-2032. 272 cases. 

Grimsby Hillside Frontier Block Chardonnay 2023
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $60

Rating: 94+

Easy to appreciate honeyed and confected fruit on the nose and layered on the palate, this delivers spectacular flavour as part of its focused and sleek savoury and saline character. Ready to drink from Day One but excited to see how it develops. Drink now-2032. 86 cases 

Willms Chardonnay 2023
Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $49

Rating: 94

This makes an immediate first impression on the nose; more complexity and detail than the other Niagara-on-the-Lake wines. Welcoming and complete style that’s rich and refreshing. Bright and ripe fruit, with texture and length that will age gracefully. Drink now-2032. 44 cases 

Wismer-Foxcroft Nord Chardonnay 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $60

Rating: 94

This is surprisingly open with developing caramel and honeyed fruit character. The rich and round style is sure to please the masses, with expressive yellow apple, and apricot that almost — almost! — draw attention away from the stony texture and lingering saline finish. Drink now-2032. 198 cases. 

Grimsby Hillside Organic Red Clay Barn Block Chardonnay 2023
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $45

Rating: 93

The undiscovered western edge of Niagara wine country continues to come into focus. This is a classy chardonnay with richness and energy. Ripe peach, pear and apple with depth and length. Drink now-2030. 44 cases. 

Cuesta Chardonnay 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $49

Rating: 93

More streamlined and focused than previous vintages, this offers stony/oyster shell character with intensely citrus fruit shining through as part of a textural, long and moderately concentrated wine. The mouth-watering finish shows attractive chalky texture with a clean sweep of acidity. Drink now-2035. 118 cases.

Kirby Old Vines Pinot Blanc 2023
Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $39

Rating: 93

This delicious expression of pinot blanc that will have many re-thinking their opinion about this under-appreciated variety. Bright and juicy pear and golden apple fruit is broadcast as part of a fine-boned white wine with minerally texture and a lingering, refreshing finish. Drink now-2030. 99 cases.

Werner York Chardonnay 2023
St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $45

Rating: 93

This shows Niagara-on-the-Lake ripeness in the form of juicy pear and yellow apple as part of a more focused and fresher format. Bold yet refined character with potential to age. Drink now-2033. 119 cases. 

Bai Xu Chardonnay 2023
Four Mile Creek, NiagaraPeninsula $49

Rating: 92

Made in a crowd-pleasing style, with creamy texture that carries yellow apple and apricot fruit with spicy accents. Rewarding with stuffing to age. Drink now-2030. 46 cases.  

Ivy & Warren Chardonnay Saunders Haut Organic 2023
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $49

Rating: 92

A different side of the vineyard on display in 2023, with a fragrant and green character (think sauvignon blanc herbal essence) on the nose and bright and textured palate. This is focused, with richness and refreshment with a chiseled finish. Drink now-2032. 68 cases. 

Spencer Morgan Gravel Road Chardonnay 2023
Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $49

Rating: 92

A stylish Niagara barrel fermented chardonnay, with everything in place. Orchard-fresh fruit with toffee and honey accents. Generous and complete. Drink now-2032. 22 cases.

Mio Long Rows Chardonnay 2023
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $45

Rating: 91

Toffee and ripe yellow apple and pear stand-out on a rich nose, while the texture suggests a classic barrel fermented chardonnay character with fleshy, citrussy fruit notes. Approachable. 45 cases. Drink now-2030. 

Bator Vineyard Old Vines Chardonnay 2023
Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $45

Rating: 91

Appealing honeyed, rich barrel fermented character. Buttery texture, juicy pear and peach fruit and a citrussy finish. Tremendous balance. Drink now-2029. 20 cases.